Hello!
I haven’t posted for ages, but have been enjoying everyone’s
comments. Thank-you for your great insights; I hope I can contribute
some of my own ideas once I have some more experience!
I’m interested in making a liquid pet shampoo, either using my own
liquid base or by adding eo’s to another company’s unscented base
formula. I’ve heard, though, that liquid shampoo bases are much
harsher than shampoos in bar form, which I currently make. Is this
true? If so, any ideas on how to formulate a “less harsh” liquid
base?
Any info anyone has on this topic would be very much appreciated. I
think there has been some discussion on liquid shampoo bases in the
past, but I haven’t been able to find the right postings! I’d also
be interested in finding some suppliers that you recommend for liquid
shampoo bases to find out more re: ingredients used.
Thanks in advance!! All the best,
Kim
liquid shampoo base: harsher than bars?
July 26th, 2004 · 8 Comments
Tags: Beauty
8 responses so far ↓
1 Polly Lory // Jul 27, 2004 at 7:22 am
Here’s the recipe that we used to make for our Old English sheepdog, Ashley.
Actually, we bit off a corner of one of these biscuits and
Lisanne (Albany, NY)
I miss him.
discovered that they taste pretty darn good! haha
ASHLEY’S DOG BISCUITS
1 C grated cheese (any kind; Ashley liked cheddar!)
2 1/2 C flour
7/8 C water
1 tsp soy sauce
1 C bacon fat
Mix ingredients together. Roll out dough — it will be firm. Cut into
squares. Squeeze squares in the center, like the shape of a bow tie (bone).
Place on a lightly greased cookie sheet. Bake at 325 degrees for 20 minutes.
This recipe is SO special to our family … hope you and your grandson enjoy
making them, as well.
2 Maureen Tammara // Jul 27, 2004 at 10:22 am
I’ve been making my shampoo with mostly olive oil a little coconut and
superfatting generously with Turkey Red and Glycerin. It works well for my
hair but I have recently made some herbal color shampoos (the only one that
is clear is the madder root/annatto seed) but I’ve been using the
chamomile/calendula castile and it is indeed milder than the plain shampoo.
It is pretty in it’s own way. I’ve also made blue malva, black malva, and
clove. I made a puree of sulfonated castor with all the herbs except the
madder root and annatto which I made a herbal water, straining out the seeds
and root pieces. Am getting ready now to send some to testers to see how
they work on different hair colors.
I now want to make a moisturizing shampoo for all colors of hair and for
permed or colored hair. Can’t decide what I want to do though. I have
recipes for very moisturizing soaps and wonder what would happen if I used
one of those recipes with sodium potassium. Has anyone tried that? The
salon that is interested in buying the conditioning shampoo does not care
whether it is clear or not. They just want it to work.
Anne,
ANNE LEE’S
www.annelees.com
3 leonora_20 // Jul 27, 2004 at 9:17 pm
Thank-you Angela for your ideas re: liquid pet shampoos (the biscuit
recipes are great too!). I wonder what it is about Ivory soap that
is so effective? Hmmm… I plan to do some experimenting very soon,
so if I come up with some useful results, I’ll post my findings. I
like the idea of using a castille base — I’ll have to look into
suppliers. The glycerin/vinegar recipe also sounds especially
intriguing: so many animals seem to develop dry skin, so this would
be very moisturizing. Incidentally, I work for an assistance dog
society in Canada, and we work very closely with humane societies
throughout the province of B.C. It’s certainly rewarding work and I
wouldn’t trade it for the world!!
All the best,
Kim
4 leonora_20 // Jul 28, 2004 at 5:15 am
Anne, your shampoo recipes sound wonderful: good luck with the blends
.
you are about to test! I’m planning to try my hand at working with
potassium hydroxide this weekend. I picked up a book on liquid
soapmaking (the name and author have completely escaped me at the
moment, but it was published in 2000 and written by someone living
in… Oregon??? hmmm…). Anyway, the info is great, but the
instructions seem difficult to follow and a bit overwhelming! Once
I’ve tried it, hopefully I’ll find the process a bit easier to
understand.
It sounds like you have a lot of experience with liquid shampoos –
do you find that they are more finicky and complicated than making
bar soaps? I also wonder about shelf life with the liquids made from
scratch. I usually superfat my bar soaps, which does limit their
shelf life a bit I suppose (still, I haven’t had major problems with
spoilage), so I wonder if you feel a liquid shampoo, especially an
extra moisturizing one, would require extra preservatives ie. vit. E
or Grapefruit Seed Extract? Just wondering aloud.
Does anyone else out there have experience with liquid soap making?
If so, what are your thoughts on the quality of the products you’ve
developed and the process itself? If I actually accomplish my goal
of making liquid shampoo this weekend, I’ll try to post some thoughts
on the results — even if they are disasterous
All the best,
Kim
5 Maureen Tammara // Jul 29, 2004 at 2:12 am
Oh, I’ve only done about 10 batches but I have made quite a bit of
transparent soap and in some ways they are similar. She does not recommend
using herbs but I had a request for color shampoos made with herbs and plant
stuff which is why I am working with them. The soap is not clear when you
put these things in and it has to be shaken because I’ve had a small amount
of separation. I’ll work on that when I get a fomula accepted–they need
more conditioning shampoo for their daily shampoo than I gave them because
they work with so much colored, permed and damaged hair.
I think it is important to read your book 3 times unless you have a
photographic memory, then decide which method you are going to use (I did
both and decided I liked the paste best) and then make yourself a fairly
detailed outline. Information is all over the place and it is hard to look
it up when you’re in the midst of doing something new.
Good luck and do let us know how it goes.
Anne,
ANNE LEE’S
www.annelees.com
6 Harriet Kym // Jul 30, 2004 at 7:41 pm
From: “Angela Beyer”
I would think using liquid or gel castille would be much better for the
animal since it wouldn’t contain all the synthetic detergents the
dishwashing liquid does.
I’m not sure about the Murphy Oil Soap. I cannot find ANY information about
its ingredients. Yes, it does say it’s an pure vegetable oil soap.
HOWEVER, it is possible to make such a soap with undesired chemicals or
other additives. I’ve seen this with a number of products from large
companies. Even the label “all-natural” doesn’t necessarily mean it is. I
went to the Murphy site and looked at their FAQ. Here is the first question
and answer:
What is Murphy Oil Soap made from?
Murphy Oil Soap is a safe, naturally gentle soap, specially formulated for
cleaning wood and other household surfaces. And it leaves your home smelling
fresh and clean. Murphy’s contains no harsh detergents, ammonia, or bleach.
As you can see, there is no mention of specific ingredients. They
pussy-footed around the question and didn’t answer it at all. When I see
“what is it made from” I expect to see ingredients, not a marketing spiel.
Just my personal opinion and observation here. I would never use Ivory soap
(dish liquid or regular bath) for any skin care … human or animal. It
contains lemongrass, which is a skin irritant. It really did a number on my
ex’s skin whenever he used it. I also had problems with it when I was using
it for a rebatch experiment (before I started making my own soap).
NightShade
Minds are like parachutes … they only function when open.
7 Harriet Kym // Jul 31, 2004 at 3:39 am
From: <2didi@…
GSE is touted as a preservative, however, very little literature exists on
moisturizing one, would require extra preservatives ie. vit. E or Grapefruit
Seed Extract? Just wondering aloud. < <<
Vitamin E is not a preservative. It is an anti-oxidant which means it slows
the rancidity rate of oil. It is a good idea to include Vitamin E in any
recipe which uses oil to help shelf life. It’s also good for your skin.
it. About the only thing I’ve found so far to date is the info the
manufacturer puts out. However, I and many others have used it with success
… at least for short-term shelf life. But to be on the safe side, you
should test your product for growths. Snowdrift Farm sells a home test kit
that is reasonably priced. The cost is well worth it to ensure the quality
of your product. If it were me, I would test the product at the following
weeks: 1, 2, 4, 6, 8, 12, 16, 20, and 24. This would help me determine
whether or not my preservative system worked, and when any degradation of
the product occurred (both of which determine shelf life).
To be absolutely safe, you should use a preservative such as Germaben II.
There’s another one that I’ve heard about recently, but I can’t remember the
name of it. The issue of all-natural vs using something like Germaben is
the one thing that keeps me from seriously considering selling any
water-based products I may make. I want completely all-natural, but am
aware of the quality and safety issues involved.
NightShade
Minds are like parachutes … they only function when open.
8 paris180 // Aug 3, 2004 at 2:13 pm
Here is a recipe for a pet shampoo bar:
100 grams castor oil (3.53 oz)
500 grams coconut oil (17.64 oz)
250 grams olive oil (8.82 oz)
500 grams palm oil (17.64 oz)
1000 grams shortening (35.27 oz)
12 oz lye dissolved in 650 grams (22.9 oz) distilled water
.5 oz lavender eo
1 oz tea tree eo
.5 oz rosemary eo
.25 oz clary sage eo
.25 oz vitamin e
hope this helps
sunny
lizard head natural products
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